How deep may the Effect of Wind Waves extend?

[摘要] This is a supplementary note to my previous paper. Here is made a discussion concerning the depth, to which the disturbance of wind waves sensibly extend. In §2, the expressions for the maximum velocity, U, and the horizontal distance, Δ, within which the water moves on the bottom of shallow seas were obtained, viz. where H is the wave height, λ is the wave length of the wind waves, and d' is the depth of the sea. The values of were computed for various values of d' and λ.Some discussions were made on the actual values of H and λ which come into the above expressions. In §3, is discussed the relation between the grain size of sand particles and the erosion velocity. It was concluded that on stormy weathers easily erodable material such as fine sand, etc. at the depth of 10m or thereabouts can be sufficiently eroded by the disturbance of the wind waves, although we cannot determine the limit of depth to which the effect of wind waves extends for the present.

[学科分类] 大气科学