Generalized Green's Theorem on Wave Motion in a Canal of Variable Section

[摘要] Green's theorem on the laws of waves in a Canal of gradually varying section, freed from the restriction to the special form of section, is as follows: If the transverse dimeneions of the canal vary only by a small fraction of themselves within the limits of a wave-lengh, the amplitude of wave varies inversely as the square root of the breadth and inversely as the fourth root of the depth. The present author makes a further approximation and obtains a law of the variation of amplitude including Green's theorem as a special case. He also explains that the slower the slope of bottom, the larger become the amplitude. This holds good for the variation of the amplitudes of “Tunami” or destuctive sea-waves.

[学科分类] 大气科学