TRANSFORMATION, BREAKING AND RUN-UP OF A LONG WAVE OF FINITE HEIGHT

[摘要] On studying the transformation, breaking and run-up of a relatively steep wave of a short period, the theory for waves of permanent type has given us many fruitful results. However, the theory gradually loses its applicability as a wave becomes flat, since a considerable deformation of the wave profile is inevitable in its propagation.In § 1, a discussion concerning the transformation of a long wave in a channel of variable section is presented based on the non-linear shallow water theory. Approximate solutions obtained by G. B. Whitham's method (1958) are shown. Further, some brief considerations are given to the effects of bottom friction on wave transformation.In § 2, breaking of a long wave is discussed. Breakings on a uniformly sloping beach and on a beach of parabolic profile are considered and the effects of beach profile on breaking are clarified. Finally in § 3, experimental results on wave run-up over l/30 slope are described in comparing with the Kaplan's results.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] transformation;breaking;run-up;Whitham's method