THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

[摘要] The purpose of this paper is to summarize existing knowledge of the processes involved in the movement of progressive oscillatory waves through shallow water and the fundamental principles controlling these processes. Variations in wave characteristics and their physical significance will be discussed as well as agreement between theory and observation. The application of available knowledge to engineering problems is treated in the following chapters.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] linear wave theory;shoaling;refraction;breaking