SURF BEAT GENERATION ON A MILD-SLOPE BEACH

[摘要] Two dimensional generation of surf beats by incident wave groups is examined theoretically. An inhomogeneous wave equation describes the amplitude of the surf beat wave. The forcing function is the modulation of the radiation stress. The short waves are amplitude modulated both outside and inside the surf zone causing the long wave generation to continue right to the shore line. Resonant generation as shallow water is approached is included. The analytical solution is evaluated numerically and shows a highly complicated amplitude variation of the surf beat depending on the parameters of the problem.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] surf beat;mild slope;sloped beach