DETERMINATION OF THE WAVE HEIGHT IN NATURE FROM MODEL TESTS SUPPLEMENTED BY CALCULATION

[摘要] This paper deals with the problem of determining the wave characteristics in shallow water from those in deep water. In general this can be done by means of a refraction calculation. If the sea bottom topography is too irregular the height of the waves can be determined by means of a small-scale refraction model. In both cases, however, some additional effects have to be taken into account, viz. the influence of the bottom friction and the influence of the wind.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave refraction;model studies;energy balance