OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

[摘要] Field observations of low-frequency wave on natural beaches are carried out. The ratio of the wave height of low-frequency wave near the shoreline to the wind wave height at the offshore has positive correlation with the surf similarity parameter. Using the field data, a validation of a numerical model was made. The model includes basic mechanisms of low-frequency wave generation that low-frequency wave increases with shoaling of wind waves groups, they are released from wave groups due to wave breaking and wind wave period becomes longer due to run-up to the beach. The model results tend to be excessively computed against field data.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] natural beach;low frequency waves;wave observation;wave simulation