WATER WAVES PROPAGATING ON BEACHES OF ARBITRARY SHAPE

[摘要] When a small amplitude wave climbing along an arbitrary sloping beach from deep water toward the shore, the variation of characteristics in the process of wave motion has been described in this paper. From the results of theoretical derivation, it is found out that the variation of water surface and amplitude are function of beach slope) and dimensionless distance (kx~) from the shore. And under the condition of the beach slope is a = 0 and a = °o that the solution will become a progressive wave and a standing wave respectively.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave propagation;beach slope;waves on slope