TURBULENCE GENERATED BY WAVE BREAKING ON BEACH

[摘要] Horizontal and vertical velocities are measured with a hot-film anemometer (HFA) and a two-component laser-doppler velocimeter(LDV) in surf zones on uniform slopes of about 1/30 in two wave tanks. The turbulence generated by wave breaking is detected from the records. Following three aspects of the turbulence are discussed : (1) the distribution of the turbulence intensity in the surf zone, (2) the variation of the vertical distribution of the turbulence during one wave period and (3) the variation of the Reynolds stress during one wave period. It is found that the pattern of the distribution of the turbulence in the surf zone depends on the breaker type. A model is proposed, by extending the turbulent wake theory, to explain the variation of the vertical distribution of the turbulence during one wave period.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] breaking waves;wave turbulence;breaking on beach