SOLITON-MODE WAVEMAKER THEORY AND SYSTEM FOR COASTAL WAVES

[摘要] A theory of wavemaker system for coastal waves (nonlinear random waves in very shallow water) having the desired statistics is developed under the assumption that they are treated as random trains of the KdV solitons and further its applicability is examined experimentally. This wavemaker system is shown usefull to generate accurately nonlinear waves having the desired water surface profiles of which nonlinearity is specified by the Ursell number Ur > 15 for regular waves (cnoidal waves) and Ur ~> 8 for random ones (coastal waves).

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] soliton-mode;wavemaker;wavemaker theory