WAVE KINEMATICS COMPUTATIONS USING BOUSSINESQ MODELS

[摘要] Existing Boussinesq models are extended to include the computation of the vertical structure of the horizontal velocity. A time-domain model is tested against laboratory measurements of the vertical profile of the horizontal velocity in regular waves; good results are obtained, especially in the near-bed zone. A spectral model, which includes a dissipation formulation to account for wave breaking, is tested against laboratory measurements of bottom velocities in (partially) breaking irregular waves. For moderately long waves, the comparison on velocity variance and skewness, which are relevant to sediment transport, yields good results.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave kinematics;Boussinesq model