EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF BREAKING WAVES OVER A SHOAL

[摘要] The aim of this paper is to study the transformation of irregular directional waves over a circular shoal. An experimental study has been carried out. The resulting data has been used to test the accuracy of an existing refraction-diffraction model. Model to data comparisons have been carried out for the entire basin region including about 3 shoal diameters downwave of the shoal, with satisfactory results. Several physical processes have been identified which lead to possible disparities in the comparisons.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] breaking waves;shoal;experimental study