A BOUSSINESQ BREAKING WAVE MODEL WITH VORTICITY

[摘要] The paper describes a breaking wave model based on the classical assumptions for long, moderately nonlinear Boussinesq waves. It is shown that wave breaking can be described by accounting for the effect of vorticity generated by the breaking process. This leads to two additional terms in the momentum equation, both of which represent the enhancement of the momentum flux associated with the extra particle velocities found at and around the turbulent front of the breaking waves. In addition to the wave height decay and profile deformation predicted by earlier breaker models, the present model also provides information about particle velocity profiles including the undertow. Comparisons are made to measurements for these quantities. The similarities and differences between various breaker models are also examined and explained.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] vorticity;Boussinesq model;breaking waves;breaking model