IRREGULAR WAVE KINEMATICS FROM A PRESSURE RECORD

[摘要] A local Fourier approximation method is presented for the prediction of the complete kinematics of irregular waves from a submerged pressure trace. The method seeks a potential function and local water surface elevation that fit the pressure record and the full nonlinear free surface boundary conditions very closely in a small window in time. The result is a complete prediction of the kinematics of the waves throughout the water column that satisfies the complete nonlinear equations for irrotational gravity waves. Comparisons with the predictions of steady wave theory are excellent.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] pressure record;irregular wave;wave kinematics