EXPERIMENTAL STUDIES ON THE GENERATION OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

[摘要] The seas in front of China coast such as Yellow Sea, East China Sea and Taiwan Straits are all located on continental shelf. In consequence, waves approaching these coasts are generated in shallow water area in comparsion with wave length. The authors has developed tangible calculation procedures for evaluating the wave features in such areas in stationary or moving fetches (l). However, the basical formulas of calculation are derived from experimental data of Bretschneider and Thijsse. In order to investigate the generating process of shallow water wind waves and obtain more detailed informations for correcting calculation criteria, a series of experiments have been performed at a wind tunnel of 75 meters in length. Various investigations on the relationships between waves and wind as well as water depth ar4 to be submitted in this paper. In addition, the situation of wind wave coexistance with regular wave is studied from experiments, because it resembles the superposition of refracted and local wind waves on the western coast of Taiwan.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave generation;shallow water;experimental study