ESTIMATION OF WATER PARTICLE VELOCITIES OF SHALLOW WATER WAVES BY A MODIFIED TRANSFER FUNCTION METHOD

[摘要] This paper Is intended to propose a simple, yet highly reliable approximate method which uses a modified transfer function in order to evaluate the water particle velocity of finite amplitude waves at shallow water depth in regular and irregular wave environments. Using Dean's stream function theory, the linear function is modified so as to include the nonlinear effect of finite amplitude wave. The approximate method proposed here employs the modified transfer function. Laboratory experiments have been carried out to examine the validity of the proposed method. The approximate method is shown to estimate well the experimental values, as accurately as Dean's stream function method, although its calculation procedure is much simpler than that of Dean's method.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] particle velocity;velocity estimation;shallow water;modified transfer function