NONLINEAR THEORY ON PARTICLE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE OF RANDOM WAVES

[摘要] In this paper, to the third approximation, we used the Fourierstieltjes integral rather than Fourier coefficient to develop a weakly nonlinear theory. From the theory, the nonlinear spectral components for water particle velocity and wave pressure can be calculated directly from the directional spectrum of water surface displacement. Computed results based on the nonlinear theory were compared with that of experiment made by Anastasiou (1982). Furthermore, in accordance with the different characteristics of wave properties, such as wave steepness, water depth and so on, the nonlinear effects on wave kinematic and pressure properties were extensively investigated by using some standard power spectra.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] random waves;nonlinear theory;particle velocity;wave pressure