DISTRIBUTION OF UNDERTOW AND LONG-WAVE COMPONENT VELOCITY DUE TO RANDOM WAVES

[摘要] Laboratory measurements were performed on cross-shore velocity variations in the surf zone caused by random waves by using a laser Doppler velocimeter. Two-dimensional distributions of undertow and long-wave component velocity were obtained on a uniform slope bed and a bar-type beach. A model was presented to estimate undertow distribution due to random waves on an arbitrary beach topography.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] undertow;random waves;long wave;wave velocity