DIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION OVER A RIP CHANNEL: AN EXPERIMENT

[摘要] The aim of these tests was to study wave propagation on a beach, including the surf zone, and nearshore circulation produced by breakers in the presence of a rip channel. The tests were carried out in a multidirectional wave tank. The initial series of tests concerned the case of a plane beach sloping at 1 in 30. The second series was performed with a rip channel excavated in the beach. Conventional wave measurements were taken at 50 different points. Measurements of the multidirectional waves and rip current were taken at 7 points along the channel centre line. During the tests, various types of wave (monochromatic, random monodirectional and multidirectional) were tested and the results obtained were compared with identical starting conditions.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] rip channel;wave propagation;directional propagation