GENERATION OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES IN BREAKING PROCESS OF WAVE GROUPS

[摘要] To understand the cross-shore distribution of the wave groups and the infragravity waves in a storm, field observations have been carried out at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility. The relationship between the wave groups and the infragravity waves is examined. The infragravity waves are generated in the wave breaking process of the wave groups. The observed heights of infragravity waves in the surf zone agree well with the predicted one by modified Symonds' model, in which a time delay of small wave breaking due to propagation is taken into consideration.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave groups;breaking process;wave breaking;infragravity waves