ANOMALOUS DISPERSION OF FOURIER COMPONENTS OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES IN THE NEAR SHORE AREA

[摘要] Water level deflections ri (t) have been measured synchronously at some positions in a beach profile on the isle of SYLT / North Sea during severe storm surge conditions as well as at attenuating wave action. A steadily increasing wave period T in the upbeach direction, turning out from strip chart evaluations, is in accordance with the result of FOURIER syntheses. Near shore wave deformation is explained by ANOMALOUS dispersion of the frequency components.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] dispersion;anomalous dispersion;Fourier components;gravity waves;nearshore zone