A SIMPLE MATHEMATICAL MODEL OP WAVE MOTION ON A RUBBLE MOUND BREAKWATER FRONT

[摘要] This paper is a continuation of a paper under the same title, presented at the Vlllth Conference in Mexico City, 1962, where a mathematical model was proposed, intended to give a rough idea of the order of magnitude of velocities and accelerations in the downrushmg wave on a rubble mound breakwater front. Here observations of 85 individual waves of various dimensions are presented and compared with the formulae derived from the model. Considerable scatter is evident, but it is concluded that the model does correspond roughly to the actual displacements of the water surface during downrush, and therefore may be expected to give useful indications also of velocities and accelerations. The importance of the slope of the surface is emphasized, and, within the scope of the tests, this slope seems to stand in linear relation to the wave steepness.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] mathematical model;breakwater design;rubble mound breakwater