OBSERVATIONS OF TIE TRANSFORMATION OF OCEAN WAVE CHARACTERISTICS NEAR COASTS BY USE OF ANCHORED BUOYS

[摘要] In order to clarify the transformation process of ocean waves in shallow water, a series of wave observations were carried out along some coasts in Japan by photographing two or three convenient buoys aligned m the direction of the waves with two 16 urn cine-cameras. The equipment and methods used in observations and analyses are here described together with some of the results obtained. By examining the motion of the buoys off the coast at Shirahama it was found that the method of wave observation by means of anchored buoys was very useful in the case of comparatively long waves.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] wave transformation;anchored buoys;shallow water