WATER-WAVE INTERACTION IN THE SURF ZONE

[摘要] In the surf zone on beaches, there are strong effects which cannot be described by linear equations. This paper describes a number of wave interactions that can take place, using the simplest set of equations that give an adequate qualitative description. The results are of value for comparison with detailed experimental measurements and for gaining understanding of surf zone processes.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] surf zone;water/wave interaction