THEORY ON FORMATION OF RIP-CURRENT AND CUSPIDAL COAST

[摘要] The hydrodynamic instability theory is developed on the formation of rip-current and cuspidal coast. The most preferred wave length is shown to be about four times the distance from the shore to the breaker zone. Typical patterns of flow field and bottom configurations are represented. Finally, the theory is compared with field observations.

[学科分类] 建筑学

[关键词] rip current;current;cuspidal coast;cuspidal formation