Wave boundary layer hydrodynamics and cross-shore sediment transport in the surf zone

[摘要] (cont.) The hydro-dynamical predictions and the corresponding bedload sediment transport predictions by this analytical model agree with the available sheet flow experimental data, with the bed roughness being consistently characterized by the total mobile-bed roughness. Unlike the OWT case, where waves do not propagate, waves in a flume or in the sea are propagating. We outline the extension of the analytical model to propagating waves and quantify the hydrodynamical and bedload sediment transport differences between propagating and non-propagating waves. These differences are significant and need to be accounted for when interpreting OWT results.

[发布机构] Massachusetts Institute of Technology